My interest in medieval wall paintings grew through regular visits to St. Faith’s Chapel, Westminster Abbey where the east wall is covered by a 13th century portrait of the Saint, accompanied by the monk who is said to have painted her. However, it was reading a short novel by J.L. Carr that inspired me to seek them out in country churches. A Month in the Country was published in 1980 , won the Guardian Fiction Prize and was shortlisted for the Booker. It was subsequently made into a film starring Kenneth Branagh and Colin Firth. It tells the story of Tom Birkin, a survivor from the Great War, commissioned to undertake the uncovering and restoration of a medieval Doom mural in a country church in Yorkshire during the ‘long warm days of August’. It is a simple poignant story of friendship, unrequited love, village life and painstaking restoration. All too soon, Birkin’s country idyll is over and he is on his way. J.L.Carr knows his subject well; passion and tension are both revealed behind the works of both artist and restorer, centuries apart. The church is set in fictitious Oxgodby, but in reality the author sets its background in the ‘fields of Northamptonshire’ as he explains in the foreword. Could he have been thinking of Croughton, perhaps, whose 14th century murals were discovered in 1921 and restored in the 1960s?
A Doom worthy of such inspiration is that at Oddington, Gloucestershire. The village was moved to higher, drier ground after the Black Death, and a new church was built in 1852. By 1860, the church, dedicated to St. Nicholas and enlarged by the Normans, was derelict. Wall paintings, dated 1340, were not discovered until whitewash was removed in 1913 during restoration. An articleinThe Times, written in 1935, calls it ‘one of the most notable representations of the Last Judgement now surviving in the country’. It includes gruesome scenes from hell: grotesque monsters and boiling cauldrons in contrast to redeemed souls clambering to heaven, assisted by angels on the other side often mural. Restoring these works of art, sometimes hidden for centuries, obscured by dust and lime wash must be tremendously exciting. As Birkin explains in A Month in the Country, ‘perhaps you can understand if I explain that, to begin with, I wasn’t sure of what I was uncovering:’
‘It was breathtaking. A tremendous waterfall of colour, the blues of the apex falling, then seethingintoaturbulenceof red; like all truly great works of art, hammering you with its whole before beguiling you with its parts.’
Medieval wall paintings and other superstitious pictures were banned by Edward VI in 1547 and byElizabeth 1 in 1559. Others that escaped, in remote parts of the country, were obliterated less than a century later.
Many have been uncovered and restored in the last hundred years, some as late as the 1970s. In Leebotwood, Shropshire, a medieval painting of Christ and Mary with angels in attendance was uncovered in 1976. The Last Judgement at Blyth, Northamptonshire, probably the work of a travelling artist, restored in 1987, is recognised as one of the most complete medieval murals in the country.
Some murals have survived intact; others are mere fragments of what might have been such as those at Shorthampton, Oxfordshire. Depictions of St. Christopher and St. Martin at Chalgrave, Bedfordshire are much faded. However, a huge mural of St. Christopher carrying the Christ-child at the 12th century church of St. Mary Magdalen, Baunton, Gloucestershire seems as fresh as the day it was painted, decorated with fish, a mermaid and a ship. It continues to offer protection to those entering and leaving the church, opposite the south door.
Who knows how many frescoes will be discovered in country churches off the beaten track? only time will tell.
I love this novella and read it again recently with a book group. I first came across it nearly twenty years ago and it set me off on a trail to discover medieval wall paintings across the country, and later in northern Italy.
Recently I suffered a shocking and heart-breaking bereavement of a close relative. As I start to read again, this novel is perfect: it is a sad, wistful story set in a time of hardship and uncertainty; I find its gentle bleakness strangely comforting.
We can ask and ask but we can’t have again what once seemed ours forever - the way things looked, that church alone in the fields, a bed on a belfry floor, a remembered voice, the touch of a hand, a loved face. They’ve gone and you can only wait for the pain to pass.